Here is how I have mounted the early Sportster forward controls on my Amen frame.

First - notice that I have upper motor mounts where as
Sawsall does not.  Another difference between Sawsall and this bike is the height of the engine off the ground.  This machine has a tall front end which made using the upper engine mounts undesireable.

I used jack stands to test fit the forwards.  I also had the bike in center so it was easy to measure from side to side.

 

 

 

I checked the height from side to side so the pegs would line up across the bike.

 

 

 

 

I did several "test rides" from the seated position to be sure my legs and feet were comfortable at the chosen location - honestly, none of the available positions seem just right.  For me - mounting the pegs just about outside the points cover would be just about right.  Since that spot was not available I went forward and stayed low on the frame - absolutely no worry about grounding the pegs - still plenty of ground clearance.  The other dimension I checked was the width.  The right control worked fine but as you will see - the left gets a little more complicated.

 

 

 

 

 

The right side control comes with six-inches of clearance.  That was enough to get my leg away from the engine.  On the right side I cut off a pair of 3/8x1 inch bolts and welded them on the frame.  I used that anti-stick welding spray near the welds to keep slag from bonding to nearby surfaces.  I used a Lincoln wire feed welder to make the welds.

 

 

 

 

I bolted up the right side control with chrome 3/8 cap nuts and lock washers.  Time will tell if the bolt welds are strong enough to support the peg - so far so good but I'm not testing it with a lot of weight.  Looking good on the right side.  Now for the left.

 

 

 

 

The left Sportster forward control comes with a four inch offset (unlike the six inch on the right side).  To clear the alternator cover and keep my leg off the side of the engine I had to move the control about one and a half inches off the side of the frame.

 

 

Now this is where we start getting into some hacksaw and grinder work.  I went to the hardware store and purchased a stick of 3/4 by 3/16 stock.  I bent the stock to match the size of the left side control mounting plate.  I ground the ends to fit the radius of the frame and used a level ensure it's plumb.  I had to make two trips back to the grinder to get it right.  I used a magnet to hold the metal in place while I rechecked the placement with the forward control.  Then I added welds on the upper and low edges.  I put the forward control against the metal and marked the spot for holes which I drilled with a 3/8 inch bit.

 

 

 

I fastened the forward control with bolts and cap nuts to finish the left side.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Now to hook up the linkages.  First - the shifter. The shifter presented several problems.  At the toe end - the Sporster lever is too short and you can't get your toe under it.  I added a three inch extension which will need to be chromed.  Even at three inches - it may be too short and require fabrication of a longer extension.

At the shift end I chose to use the piece that came with the kit although it is heavily modified.  You can see that I cut the bottom off and then trimmed so it would fit on top of the Honda shifter as well as shorten the overall length to minimize the sweep necessary to complete the shift.  I think a better solution would be to acquire a second Honda shifter and cut/weld/bolt as necessary.  The size, shape, and perhaps even fit would be better than using the Sportster lever.

The shift connector rod is shipped straight.  You can see that it requires two bends to finish the connection - but thats not all (!) - I also had to shorten the rod and rethread the end to fit the overall length.  Not a lot of work - but a lot of details to attend too..

 

 

 

 

 

The brake side is a little harder to get a decent picture - you can see that I welded a tab onto the Honda brake restraint and simply threaded the cable through the tab.  Then I ran the cable lock through the drum lever.  I will continue to consider other ways to hook the cable to the lever.  At this point - the stock brake lever AND the forward control will operate the brake.  I have strong return spring that can bring both the stock pedal and the forward pedal back to the neutral position.

 

 

 

 

 

And here is the (semi) finished product.